28.10.10

Free Air Frequencies of Cordless Phones

In the United States, seven frequency bands have been allocated by the Federal Communications Commission for uses that include cordless phones. These are:
  • 1.7 MHz (1.64 MHz to 1.78 MHz & up to 5 Channels, AM System)
  • 43–50 MHz (Base: 43.72-46.97 MHz, Handset: 48.76-49.99 MHz, allocated in 1986 for 10 channels, and later 25 Channels, FM System)
  • 900 MHz (902–928 MHz) (allocated in 1990)
  • 1.9 GHz (1880–1900 MHz) (used for DECT communications outside the U.S.)
  • 1.9 GHz (1920-1930 MHz) (developed in 1993 and allocated U.S. in October 2005)
  • 2.4 GHz (allocated in 1998)
  • 5.8 GHz (allocated in 2003 due to crowding on the 2.4 GHz band).
1.7 MHz cordless phones were the earliest models available at retailers, generally identifiable by their large metal telescoping antennas. Channel selection had to be done manually by the user, and transmitted just above the AM broadcast band. These models are no longer in production, and are considered obsolete due to being very susceptible to eavesdropping and interference, especially from fluorescent lighting and automobile ignitions.
43-50 MHz cordless phones had a large installed base by the early 1990s, and featured shorter bendable antennas plus auto channel selection. Due to their popularity, an over crowding of the band led to an allocation of additional frequencies, thus manufacturers were able to sell models with 25 available channels instead of just 10 channels. Despite being less susceptible to interference, these models are no longer in production and are considered obsolete because these frequencies are easily heard on practically any radio scanner. Advanced models began to use voice inversion as a basic form of scrambling to help limit unauthorized eavesdropping.
900 MHz cordless phones are still sold today and have a huge installed base. Features include even shorter antennas, up to 30 auto selecting channels, and higher resistance to interference. Available in three varieties; analog, digital, and digital spread spectrum, with most being sold today as budget analog models. Analog models are still susceptible to eavesdropping, However, older used models can still be found that are fully capable of receiving this spectrum. Digital variants can still be scanned, but are received as a digital hiss and therefore are difficult to eavesdrop upon. Digital transmission is immune to static interference but can experience signal fade (brief silence) as the phone goes out of range of the base. Digital Spread Spectrum (DSS) variants spread their signal over a range of frequencies providing more resistance to signal fade. The FCC only allows DSS model phones to transmit at the full power of 1 watt, which allows increased range over analog and digital models.
Virtually all telephones sold in the US use the 900 MHz, 1.9 GHz, 2.4-GHz, or 5.8 GHz bands, though legacy phones can remain in use on the older bands. There is no specific requirement for any particular transmission mode on 900, 1.9, 2.4, and 5.8, but in practice, virtually all newer 900 MHz phones are inexpensive analog models with digital features such as DSSS and FHSS generally available only on the higher frequencies
Some cordless phones advertised as 5.8 GHz actually transmit from base to phone on 5.8 GHz and transmit from phone to base on 2.4 GHz or 900 MHz, to conserve battery life inside the phone.
The recently allocated 1.9 GHz band is used by the popular DECT phone standard and is considered more secure than the other shared frequencies

11.10.10

Building a simple USB Charger


A simple USB Charger

USB charging is currently the most universal method of charging an electronic device. This article details the process of construction of a cheap and simple USB charger which can be used to charge cell phones, iPods, mp3 players, cameras, etc and almost any device charges through an USB port of your computer.
USB normally contains 4 lines – Vcc(+5V), Data-(D-), Data+(D+) and Gnd(Ground) . The Vcc and the Gnd line are used to power a device and the D- and D+ line are used to transfer data between the host and the device. A USB standard compliant host is expected to maintain 5V within a range of ± 0.5V and provide current of 1 unit load (I unit load = 100mA of current), unless requested for more current. To build a USB charger all you need to do is build a circuit that outputs current within the USB specification.
The Power Source
Choosing a power source will be the first step in building the charger. There are quite a few options available here. One option is to use 2 AA or AAA size batteries that output 2.4V and boost up the voltage to 5V. These batteries are quite popular and easy to find and they occupy less space and contribute a lot in making the charger small and portable. But they have drawbacks – I have one such charger that really heats up within minutes of connecting it to any device and the worse still, the batteries don’t last longer than than 4-5 minutes.
Another option is to use a pack of 4 Ni-Mh batteries. 4 Ni-Mh batteries output something around 5V depending on their charge. Hence, they can be connected directly to the power pins of the USB port. But the drawback is that 4 Ni-Mh batteries occupy a lot of space and they output voltage based on the amount of charge remaining in them.
Note: If you are using Ni-Mh batteries I would suggest you to use batteries of capacity greater than 2000 mAh. Ni-Mh batteries, though rated at 1.2V, output something around 1.4V when fully charged and 1V when fully drained. This variation is most for Ni-Mh batteries of low capacity(less than 1000 mAh ) and least for batteries of high capacity(greater than 1500mAh). A 2000mAh battery will output 1.3V when fully charged and 1.1V when fully drained.
Another popular power source is a 9V battery. The advantage is it is easily available and cheap. The drawback though is - you will have to regulate the 9V to 5V and only then supply it to the device.
For my charger, I will be making use of a 9V battery and also provide an option for connecting 4 Ni-Mh battery pack to be used as the source.

Voltage Regulation
For voltage regulation, the popular linear LM7805 regulator can be used because – it outputs a constant of 5V, is widely available and comes cheap. The only problem is that there will be a lot of energy wastage if the 7805 is used. The 7805 regulates voltage by converting the input voltage to 5V and the rest to heat. In the process of charging a USB device at 5V by providing it a current of 100 mA, the 7805 will be wasting 0.1*(9 - 5)W =0.4W and have efficiency of( 5V/9V) 55% !(In reality the efficiency is much more because the 9V battery will provide 9V only for the first few minutes and then slowly over time drop down its output voltage to nearly 6.8V before draining completely).
But still I went ahead with using the 7805 because I wanted my charger to be a simple and cheap (efficiency was quite low in my list of priorities). Actually charging any battery with another battery is itself not efficient because you will have wasted energy in charging your source battery and again will be wasting some more energy when charging your USB device’s battery through the source battery!

What about the D- and the D+ lines?
Just providing a 5V across the Vcc and Gnd lines will charge almost most USB device but it is not the best way of charging the device. By just providing a 5V across Vcc and Gnd lines and leaving the D- and D+ lines unconnected (technically called floating) will charge the device at only 100 mA. Charging a battery at 100 mA is a slow process. Hence, we have to tell the device that it has been connected to a charger and that the charger can provide more current. Unfortunately, there is no standard way of doing this and what works for one device does not work for another. For most devices, connecting the D- and D+ lines to 5V through a 100K resistor works. For, charging iPods, the D- line has to connected to 5V through a 10K resistor and the D+ line has to be connected to Gnd through a 10K resistor.

The Circuit
Here is the circuit for charging any USB device –
A simple USB Charger

Here is the circuit for charging an iPod –
A simple USB iPod Charger


Construction
The pictures of the charger I built is shown below (I added a 8mm High Brightness White LED to the board as I had a little space left on the board and didn’t want to waste the space).
A simple USB Charger


A simple USB Charger

You will have to attach a heat sink to the 7805 if you want to charge your device with more than 500 mA of current. Optionally, you can place a 0.1uF capacitor across the power pins of the USB connector as close to it as possible to reduce any noise in the power lines.